Backpacking in Japan

It was an absolutely beautiful weekend, and although we had several major challenges, I could not have enjoyed this trip more! After months of talking and dreaming about hiking in the southern Japanese Alps- specifically up Kita-Dake, the 2nd highest peak in Japan (3,193 meters/ 10,476 feet), our trip finally became a reality. Turned out, early October was by far a better time to visit the mountain anyways! I went with 2 friends from my social apartment, Kyohei and Kazuma. We made a really good team. We didn't get discouraged when we made some major mistakes- rather seeing the adventure and challenge in everything. We made decisions together regarding safety and our own physical limitations. We saw the positive in everything and kept reminding each other to enjoy the surroundings and take it all in. We were about the same fitness level and kept up a really good pace. I got my peace and quiet alone time when they would carry on in Japanese and I could just tune them out. Overall it was nice to hang out with people who love the same things that I do, or who go along with taking goofy photos, and who appreciate nature, and like a challenge.

Kita-dake is the tallest peak in a series of a mountain range in Yamanashi Prefecture. (The same prefecture as Mount Fuji). There are hiking options for multi-day trips so as to hit all the major peaks in the range. With only a 2 day/1 night weekend, we opted for just the main mountain. Our second decision was whether to camp in a tent just below the peak or stay in the mountain hut. I might think I'm hard-core, but staying in the mountain hut was a very wise decision!

We left early Saturday morning- 5:15am train from Eda to the capital, Kofu, of Yamanashi prefecture (a 2 hour ride). From there we had about an hour to wait for the 9am bus that would take us 2.5 hours up the windy mountain road to Hirogawara- the start of the trail!

"The air was crisp, the sun was warm and a hint of color on the leaves (at the trail start). Already giddy with excitement, we had no idea what was in store for us. The scenery and surroundings were magical, breathtaking, out of this world. The Japanese word for it is pam-pa-ne!" (from my journal).

The colors, the scenery, the majestic chain of mountains surrounding us, the intensity of the climb and elevation gain (we started at 1,500 meters). The river, the massive rocks, the trees. We all just couldn't stop gushing. Not to mention, we had the trail entirely to ourselves!!




Due to a massive error on all our parts, not reading sign posts or the map I had, we were forced to back-track and basically added 2.5 hours of extra strenuous hiking to the already long day's climb. The upside? We got to watch a cloudy sunset from the trail and enjoy the magic of the descending dusk and hike with headlamps. Once we reached the ridge line, we only had about 30 minutes to go. By this time it was pitch dark- 6:30 pm, but the cloud cover in the valley below was like a misty illuminated sea. Although my lungs were burning and my ankles felt weak, I loved every minute of it.

We made it to the mountain hut- stinky toilets right outside, access to clean water and a small hut with tatami floors for sleeping, an area for cooking and about 30 other hikers. (Japanese over the age of 40). We cooked our veggie/chicken/tofu/udon soup to much delight and then lights were out at 8:30pm. Our goal was to wake up at 4am, and start the final ascent to the peak at 4:30- with the intention of watching the sunrise. When we woke up at 4, it was cloudy, foggy and pouring rain.

Change of plans!

Enjoy a leisurely breakfast and then just climb back down. Full rain-gear was absolutely necessary as it rained the entire 3-hours down. In fact, its still raining 24 hours later as I write this (we are in a typhoon). The trail was incredibly steep, small rivers and puddles and miniature waterfalls collected and cascaded down the rocky/muddy trail. Each step seemed to potentially be a death-trap. This went on for 8+ km. Then it was a quick change out of my wet clothes, and back on the bus by 10:20 am.