Kamikochi- the 'gateway' to the Japanese Alps

I got the travel bug again! So after perusing my guidebook for somewhere within a 2-3 hour train ride from my apartment I booked a hostel and started planning a 2 day trip away.

Recommended as one of the 30 TOP THINGS TO DO IN JAPAN, Kamikochi is the closest access point to a plethora of hikes (from several hours to days) in the picturesque mountains.

I left Sunday night after work and caught the local train than transfered to the: Ltd. express Super Azusa that took 2 hours to arrive in Matsumoto. From the station, I google-mapped my ryokan (Japanese style guest house) and got very clear directions- it was only 1km away! Yay for smart phones :) The kind door man showed me to my private tatami room with futon and a low table with hot water and green tea. I crashed early- after I checked my guidebook and googled the train times.

Early Monday morning, already the sun was up and the weather was warm. I packed a backpack, picked up some snacks at the convenient store- 7/11 has everything! and retraced my steps back to the train station. I took the 8:30 train for Shin-shimashima, from there I jumped on an hour long bus ride up the winding roads that followed the Azusa river. At a certain point along the road, cars are no longer allowed, so the only way to access Kamikochi is by bus.

Thank goodness that up this high- 1,500 mts in elevation, the weather was significantly cooler and a wonderful breeze blew most of the day. The breeze had two effects- keeping the sweat at bay, and ricocheting insects into your face! Ahh the joys of summer.


From the bus station, the trails followed the river in both directions and on both banks. Further away, you could access trails that would take you up and into the mountains for days...I didn't have that kind of time, equipment or companion, so I stayed along the river. As a popular hiking starting point, there was a hub and bustle of people- as it turned out, I really appreciated having all those people around. I was constantly greeting hikers of all ages, fitness levels and outfit choices- 99% Japanese. 'Ko-nichi-wa'  こんにちは

Typical Japanese hikers! 

Mostly level, I walked along the bank of the river, through thick underbrush, alongside white birch trees, into the forest, out in the meadow and always with an accessible view to the ring of mountains surrounding me.

The bridge here is called the Kapa-Bashi bridge, named after a water sprite in Japanese legends.

 Although I had dappled sunshine most of the day, the fog hung low over the mountain peaks, covering the craggy peaks from view. Aren't these birch trees beautiful?

Exactly what I hope to find one day...someone who will get out and explore, and then be perfectly content to sit and enjoy the beautiful scenery.

 Over the course of the day, I hiked over 15 km through all different kinds of scenery. The meadows here are unmarred and filled with bird calls.

The river rushed by, icy cold to the touch.

 The forests were lush and dense.

Unfortunately, two things marred my fabulous hike that day! The potential threat of wild animals. These promiscuous monkeys, seemingly enjoying their own company, got rather aggressive when I came across them on the trail. (This photo was taken after my fearful encounter). When I first saw several of them on the side of the path, I got excited, took out my camera, and probably got just a little too close. I didn't think anything of it at first, because my previous monkey encounters had been so tame and non-threatening-up in the snow and feeding them at a wild animal park. Well, here one of them glared at me and started coming towards me!! The scene had turned aggressive quickly. I wasn't sure how to respond. I made a loud noise- and tried to retreat, but he followed me at a loping pace. Should I throw something at him? Images flashed in my head of him jumping up at me and biting and scratching- then the headline: 'girl gets mauled by monkeys while hiking in the forest.' I was petrified. Thank goodness, two girls were coming towards me down the path. I moved quickly to catch up with them, and the menacing monkey finally decided to get it on with his pals. I was shaken up for the rest of the day, and did not want to hike alone anymore! This is why I appreciated the crowded trails, that way I could always keep someone in my line of sight- just in case!

After the monkey encounter, I saw this sign posted in the forest! My guard went up again and I really kept close to other hikers.