Thursday, October 11, 2012

Kyoto day 3: NARA!

Preface...there have been a couple different times in my life when I have seen a photo in a book, or on someone's mantle of a seemingly far off place and I dream about reaching that place.  This happened when I saw a photo of my Uncle Walter sitting in front of the ruins of Machu Picchu.  I dreamed of someday making it there.  Then I did- and it was magical.  A big part of the magic was simply in the journey of having traveled so far to reach it.  This was also true for the famous Daibutsu, the great Buddha statue at Nara.

This morning, armed with my guidebook and information from the Tourist info booth about train times and schedules I headed off on my own to visit a city called Nara- the first permanent capital of Japan.  My guide book offered a great walking tour through Nara park- taking in all the major sites.  I got on the 8:08 am express train to Nara from Kyoto and arrived there an hour later.  At 9am, shops were just beginning to open up, and the crowds of tourists on their busses had not yet shown up.  This was both bad and good.

Nara is famous for its deer- they are considered a living national treasure and are believed to be messengers of the gods.  About 1200 roam freely through Nara park.  Pay 100 yen (about $1.30, and you can feed them).  Supposedly the Nara deer "bow" to be fed by visitors.  I don't know if it was because I was the only one around or what, but these deer were anything but friendly! As soon as they saw me buy deer food from the vendor, I was swarmed and they butted my legs, purse and then began chomping on my shirt- its got a hole in it now! It turned out to be no fun to feed these aggressive animals, and I stayed far away from them for the rest of the day!

You can't see his face, because he is currently chomping on my shirt!

 Being chased!
Finally, I was far enough down the sidewalk, that they did not follow!

My guide book took me to visit some gorgeous gardens- I just couldn't get enough of the serenity, and balance of water, bridges, rocks and small pathways.  I saw not a soul in these gardens- it was wonderful.  Lex taught me about "borrowed scenery" which means that the garden utilizes the mountains, forests and sometimes the temples in the background to be a part of the garden scene.  In this one amazing Isuien Garden, every turn brought me pure joy.
Scenery borrowing is clear here- see the mountains in the background? and the temple top too?



I'm loving these Japanese gardens!

Another highlight of Nara and what took my breath away was visiting Todaji temple- where the Great Buddha is housed.  Most of the excitement was in realizing how much of a journey it has been just to get here! From deciding to move to Japan, from flying to Tokyo, to traveling to Kyoto, to traveling to Nara to walking to this incredible place, and to really be there.  I was grinning all day, from ear to ear.  You also wouldn't believe how frequently so many of you were in my thoughts- I had you all there right beside me in my mind.  From the comments you would make, to the things you might appreciate or laugh about with me.  You travel with me, or maybe I'm just going crazy from traveling on my own!

Anyways, here is the Todaji temple with its Nio guardians (and deer guards- haha).


This temple is not the original one built to house the Buddha statue.  Even though it is the world's largest wooden building, its only 2/3 the size of the original!!


So grand and unbelievable to walk right up to it!


Supposedly the hole in this pillar is the same size as one of the Buddha's nostrils (hard to believe right!) and if you can squeeze through, you will attain enlightenment!



 At least the buggers weren't that mean...


5 comments:

  1. Ooo, ooooo, I hope I am one that you take along with you, my sweet niece. Enjoy the rest of your travels!

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    1. As I was touring with the group in Kyoto, it felt strange that I didn't know any of them- maybe next Heritage Club excursion :)

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  2. Those deer look super scary! Especially that sign. Also, pictures of that Buddha totally make me want to climb up and sit in his lap.

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  3. I'm still laughing about the deer.

    I love the rather icky, yet deeply pious visualization of squeezing through the Buddha's nostril to attain enlightenment (or at least, something meant to evoke the Buddha's nostril).

    And I'm glad that you could find such a fantastic example of borrowed scenery. It's really beautiful, and makes the garden for that angle seem to extend across the whole country.

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  4. Ah! Deer attack!!

    I remember hearing all about the history of the old capital of Nara when one time in college I accidentally stumbled into the wrong classroom and encountered a class on international folk music. It was so interesting I stayed for the whole class.

    Joe and I almost constantly joke about how "Daibutsu" just means "big butsu." I still don't know why we find that so funny. After GANTZ, I'll never see Buddha statues the same way again.

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