There are so many stories to tell here...
Logistics: I took myself on a 4 day vacation to the islands that make up the Izu archipelago, just off the east coast of the main island of Japan. The cheapest ferry was an 8-hour overnighter that left Tokyo port at 10pm and arrived at one of the ports in Oshima at 6am. I rented a room at a nice traditional Japanese inn for 3 nights and spent my time walking (basically around 1/2 the island), relaxing in onsen (public bath houses), hiking up volcanoes, enjoying the beach views, and reading. Since its the middle of winter, it was freezing cold and completely empty of tourists-it even snowed one of the days I was there! I bundled up, with double down jackets and multiple layers of pants and toughed it out.
When the ferry dropped me off at a port- I say "a" port, because it was not the main port. I had no idea at this point. It was also still incredibly dark. The other passengers that alighted with me, soon vanished and I decided to wait for the sun in the warmth of the ferry terminal-which had a waiting room with a tatami mat floor. By 8:30am, I realized that there must in fact be 2 ports and I had NOT been dropped off at the one where the tourist information/center of town was! So, with no other option, I started the 6-km treck across the island to the other port- and hopefully some signs of life.
Walking away from Okata port that first morning.
The walk was enjoyable enough. I found the main 2-lane road with clear road signs, and any signs of cars were few and far between.
About half way there, a driver pulls over and basically asks me if I'm going to Motomachi (I am) and if I want a ride (I do). Without thinking, I jump right in. We can't communicate very well, apart from the simple greeting phrases and one-word answers we happen to know in each other's languages. But he successfully drops me off at the larger port. I thank him for the ride, and check out the tourist information center. As is typical outside the big city, public transportation is not as convenient. For example, the bus to the volcano I wanted to hike, only departs 3 times a day, and if you don't make the transfer, you have to wait several hours. I realized I would have to rethink my plans and take things more slowly. Since this was vacation, slow was good.
I headed off along the coast in the general direction to reach the black sand beaches and a volcano museum. Along the way, I came across a family party... They were enjoying the sunshine, pounding mochi and eating it together- about 20 or so people-kids, adults all ages. They beckoned me and handed me a plate and chopsticks and said to 'dig in' (in Japanese, of course).
Mochi is rice pounded with a wooden mallet in a stone basin (back right corner of photo) until it turns into a rather gelatinous paste. Then it is portioned out into ball-sized pieces and rolled in matcha (green tea powder), or covered in red beans, or topped with green onions in soy sauce. So it can be either savory or sweet.
I enjoyed the snacks- it was my breakfast after all! Then I took my leave and continued on my way.
Oshima is a volcanic island- with a dormant volcano in the center of the island. It last erupted in 1986. I was super excited to climb it and look into the mouth of the caldera! So the next day, set out first to grab a bus to the main terminal (only 3 buses stop here). Unfortunately, none of them were leaving within the next 3-4 hours!!! So, I bit the bullet and took one of the waiting cabs to the plateau where the volcano hike began. Pros: efficient, warm, ready and waiting. Cons: super expensive!!!
25 minutes later, at the plateau- there was a parking lot- empty, several restaurants and shops-empty and closed. The taxi driver dropped me off, and I hoped there was some way for me to get back afterwards!! I started taking my self-timer photos, and a happy police officer bounded out from somewhere and asked if he could take my pictures for me. Why not! I asked him if he wanted to hike with me, he laughed and said no. So I braved the cold and the wind and was rewarded with a solo hike, incredible 360 degree views, steam vents, and general enjoyment of the outdoors.
It was about 2 km to the base of the volcano. 1/2 a km up to the rim and then 2.5 km around the edge of the caldera.
The oxidized lava on the side of the crater, and the other Izu islands peaking out in the distance.
As luck would have it, as I returned to the parking lot there was a bus! It was waiting to head back down the mountain in the next 15 minutes! I rejoiced! I got in, and the driver and me rode down in a massive tour bus- just the two of us.
After a filling lunch, I enjoyed the evening sunset in an outdoor onsen overlooking the sea.
So to celebrate turning 30 this year, I decided to host one of those classic murder mystery dinner parties with a group of good friends. They took it in stride- arrived in costume and got into character right away as the attacks and accusations started flying.
